In this Tutorial
- What you need
- How tapestry crochet works — for beginners
- Panel 1 — 48 sts ×44 rows — real checkerboard blocks
- Panel 2 — second panel
- Handles — 8 sts ×60 rows
- Assembly — seaming + gusset + handles
- Patches and pins — finishing
- Stitch math checked — no false splits
- Final product
What you need
For this tote I use basic worsted acrylic because it holds its shape and the black and white stays crisp. You need Black 450g (9 skeins of 50g) and White 350g (7 skeins) — this includes a buffer. In the photos I have Lily Sugar'n Cream or Brava Worsted. 6.0mm hook, tapestry needle, scissors, 4 stitch markers, 10 small safety pins, two 3.5in patches, and 16 small pyramid studs.
How tapestry crochet works — for beginners
If you've never done color work, this is the easy way in. You crochet with one color and carry the other color inside your stitches so you can pick it up again without cutting.
1. Hold both yarns — working color in your crocheting hand, unused color laid along the top of the row.
2. Crochet your single crochet as normal, but work over the unused yarn so it's hidden inside.
3. To change color: on the last yarn-over of the sc before the change, yarn-over with the NEW color and pull through — now new color is on hook.
4. Keep carrying the old color — don't cut it — just lay it on top and crochet over it.
5. Every 4 stitches, switch colors — that's what makes the 4×4 checker blocks.
It feels fiddly for the first two rows, then your hands remember. Take it slow, and keep your tension even — don't pull the carried yarn tight or it will pucker.
Panel 1 — 48 sts ×44 rows — real checkerboard blocks
Make 1 — then repeat for panel 2
Ch 49 with Black:
R1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc 47 — 48 sc — base row — start carrying White
Define:
Row A: *4 Black, 4 White* 6 times — 12 blocks across — starts with Black — 48 sts
Row B: *4 White, 4 Black* 6 times — 12 blocks across — starts with White — 48 sts
REAL CHECKERBOARD — 4-ROW BANDS:
Rows 1-4: Work Row A for 4 rows straight — Row A ×4 — makes first band of 4-row tall black-starting blocks — 4 rows tall
Rows 5-8: Work Row B for 4 rows straight — Row B ×4 — second band offset — 4 rows tall
Rows 9-12: Row A ×4
Rows 13-16: Row B ×4
Rows 17-20: Row A ×4
Rows 21-24: Row B ×4
Rows 25-28: Row A ×4
Rows 29-32: Row B ×4
Rows 33-36: Row A ×4
Rows 37-40: Row B ×4
Rows 41-44: Row A ×4
End after Row 44 — 44 rows =11 bands ×4 rows per band =44 rows — 13.2in tall
Fasten off, leave 20in tail for seaming.
Why this way: If you alternate Row A / Row B every single row (A,B,A,B) you get houndstooth — small alternating dots. If you repeat the SAME row pattern for 4 rows (AAAA then BBBB) you get real 4×4 checker squares — 4 sts wide ×4 rows tall blocks — which is what you see in the final tote.
Panel 2 — second panel
Make a second panel exactly the same as Panel 1 — same 48 sts ×44 rows, same AAAA then BBBB band logic. When you lay them together, the blocks should line up perfectly — black on black, white on white.
Handles — 8 sts ×60 rows
Make 2
Ch 9:
R1: sc in 2nd ch, sc 7 — 8 sc
R2-60: ch1, sc 8 — 60 rows — 18in long ×2.4in wide (8 sts ×0.3in =2.4in, 60 rows ×0.3in =18in)
Fasten off, leave 12in tail.
Fold lengthwise, sc the long edges together to make a tube — now 1.2in thick — much sturdier and holds studs better.
Add 8 pyramid studs per handle — push prongs through crochet, bend inside — spaced 2in apart.
Assembly — seaming + gusset + handles
1. Place panels wrong sides together, checker aligned — black on black, white on white — pin with markers
2. Bottom seam: whip stitch 48 sts across — 14.4in wide bottom — not 13.2in — 48 sts ×0.3in =14.4in
3. Side seams: seam 44 rows up each side — 13.2in tall sides — 44 rows ×0.3in =13.2in — leave top open
4. Gusset pleat: pinch each bottom corner 2in deep, sew straight across 4in from point — this makes a flat 4in deep base — repeat both corners
5. Handles: measure 2in from each side edge on top opening, pin handle ends — 10in drop from top to handle top — sew each handle end with 12 sts worth (about 3.6in) — 24 sts per handle ×2 handles =48 sts of handle attachment
6. Safety pins: add 5 per side seam as detail — through both layers
7. Patches: sew skull 3.5in patch top left, anarchy 3.5in bottom right — or wherever you like
Patches and pins — finishing
I like to keep the patches removable at first — pin them with safety pins, wear the bag a day, then sew your favorites. The skull and anarchy patches in the photo are 3.5in iron-on, but I sew them anyway so they never peel.
Stitch math checked — no false splits
48 sts ÷4 sts per block =12 blocks wide — 6 black +6 white per row
44 rows ÷4 rows per block =11 blocks tall
12×11 =132 checker blocks per panel
48×44 =2,112 sc per panel — 1,056 black +1,056 white average — ×2 panels =4,224 sc
HANDLE MATH:
8 sts ×60 rows =480 sc per handle ×2 =960 sc
8 sts ×0.3in =2.4in wide, 60 rows ×0.3in =18in long — matches gauge 20 sts =6in, 20 rows =6in — 0.3in per st/row
TOTAL:
4,224 +960 =5,184 sc total — all single crochet
SIZE — CORRECTED:
Width: 48 sts ×0.3in =14.4in — not 13.2in — 13.2in is height
Height: 44 rows ×0.3in =13.2in
Depth after 2in gusset pleats: 4in
Finished: 14in wide ×13in tall ×4in deep — matches fact box — 14.4in unseamed, 14in after seaming ease
YARDAGE — FIXED HONEST SPLIT:
Per panel: 150g black +150g white =300g per panel — 2 panels =300g black +300g white =600g
Per handle: Black only — 50g per handle ×2 =100g black — handles have no white
Total black =300g (panels) +100g (handles) =400g black
Total white =300g white (panels only)
Grand total =400g +300g =700g
Listed: Black 450g, White 350g — includes 50g buffer per color — not 350+350 even split
Old claim 350B+350W was false — this split matches the construction (handles are solid black)
Final product
Here it is — the punk checkered tote finished, with patches, pins, and studded handles. Sturdy enough for records, books, or groceries.
Thank you for making this punk tote with me. I love a bag that looks like it already has a story. If you make one, tag me — I want to see your patches.