Inside this pattern — 6 steps
- Before you begin
- Materials I used
- Sizing & how to measure
- Abbreviations
- Full roadmap — 6 steps
- Step 1 Magic ring to widest — 6→36
- Step 2 Body — straight 6 rounds
- Step 3 Closing and stuffing
- Step 4 Ridges — 6 sections
- Step 5 Brown stem
- Step 6 Green curly vine
- Finished — styling and caring
Before you begin
I've been wanting mini pumpkins that feel like a warm hug for fall, and these four turned out exactly like that. The burnt orange, cream, mustard, and rust remind me of leaves and pumpkins at the farm, and the worsted stitches make them cozy without being too heavy.
What I love about this pattern is how fast it works up. Because we are using worsted yarn and a 4mm hook, the fabric grows quickly — perfect if you want to make a set today and style them tomorrow morning with your tea.
Tip from my table: Stuff lightly but enough to hold the shape. A little firm at first is good — worsted relaxes after a day or two — so light-firm stuffing keeps them from going flat. About 4 to 5 grams of polyfill per 2.5-inch pumpkin is plenty. For the ridges, pull gently — if you pull too hard the pumpkin flattens.
Materials I used
MATERIALS:
Worsted / medium weight yarn: About 36g total for 4 pumpkins — about 9g per pumpkin — I used burnt orange, cream, mustard, and rust — each from a 50g / 100m skein — roughly 9m per pumpkin
Brown yarn for stems: About 6g total — roughly 1.5g per stem — 4 stems
Green yarn for vines: About 6g total — roughly 1.5g per vine — 4 vines
4mm crochet hook — keeps fabric tight so polyfill doesn't show
Polyfill: About 18g total — 4 to 5g per pumpkin — light stuffing
Yarn needle, scissors, stitch marker, tape measure
Optional for photos: cinnamon sticks, pinecones, dried leaves, wooden crate
Worsted / medium weight yarn: About 36g total for 4 pumpkins — about 9g per pumpkin — I used burnt orange, cream, mustard, and rust — each from a 50g / 100m skein — roughly 9m per pumpkin
Brown yarn for stems: About 6g total — roughly 1.5g per stem — 4 stems
Green yarn for vines: About 6g total — roughly 1.5g per vine — 4 vines
4mm crochet hook — keeps fabric tight so polyfill doesn't show
Polyfill: About 18g total — 4 to 5g per pumpkin — light stuffing
Yarn needle, scissors, stitch marker, tape measure
Optional for photos: cinnamon sticks, pinecones, dried leaves, wooden crate
Sizing & how to measure
SIZING:
Finished pumpkin: About 2.5" wide ×1.5" tall without stem — stem 0.8" tall — vine 3" curled
At a gauge of 18 sc = 4", 36 stitches gives about 8" around, which is about 2.5" across — that matches the size stated.
To check, measure across the widest point — it should be about 2.5". If yours is 2", try a 4.5mm hook. If it's 3", try a 3.5mm hook.
Finished pumpkin: About 2.5" wide ×1.5" tall without stem — stem 0.8" tall — vine 3" curled
At a gauge of 18 sc = 4", 36 stitches gives about 8" around, which is about 2.5" across — that matches the size stated.
To check, measure across the widest point — it should be about 2.5". If yours is 2", try a 4.5mm hook. If it's 3", try a 3.5mm hook.
Abbreviations
ABBREVIATIONS — US terms:
ch = chain, sc = single crochet, inc = increase — 2 sc in same stitch, dec = decrease — sc2tog, MR = magic ring, st(s) = stitch(es), sl st = slip stitch
ch = chain, sc = single crochet, inc = increase — 2 sc in same stitch, dec = decrease — sc2tog, MR = magic ring, st(s) = stitch(es), sl st = slip stitch
Full roadmap — 6 steps
FULL ROADMAP — 6 STEPS:
1. Magic ring to widest — 6 to 36 stitches — about 2.5" wide
2. Body — straight rounds at 36 stitches — 6 rounds — about 1.2" tall
3. Closing — 36 down to 6 — stuff with 4 to 5g — leave a 24" tail for ridges
4. Ridges — wrap 6 times — 6 sections like a real pumpkin
5. Stem — brown tube — 0.8" tall
6. Vine — green curly vine — chain 20, 2 sc in each chain — 38 sc — about 3" curled
1. Magic ring to widest — 6 to 36 stitches — about 2.5" wide
2. Body — straight rounds at 36 stitches — 6 rounds — about 1.2" tall
3. Closing — 36 down to 6 — stuff with 4 to 5g — leave a 24" tail for ridges
4. Ridges — wrap 6 times — 6 sections like a real pumpkin
5. Stem — brown tube — 0.8" tall
6. Vine — green curly vine — chain 20, 2 sc in each chain — 38 sc — about 3" curled
Step 1 — Magic ring to widest — 6 to 36 — 2.5" wide
Hey, it's Sara here — what's happening in Step 1:
We are starting your pumpkin with a magic ring because it closes with no hole. We grow from 6 stitches to 36 over six rounds. This sets the width of the whole pumpkin — about 2.5 inches. Place a marker in the first stitch of each round and count out loud — I do — and sip your tea as you go.
We are starting your pumpkin with a magic ring because it closes with no hole. We grow from 6 stitches to 36 over six rounds. This sets the width of the whole pumpkin — about 2.5 inches. Place a marker in the first stitch of each round and count out loud — I do — and sip your tea as you go.
Step 1 — starting with a magic ring, growing to 36 stitches — about 2.5 inches wide
STEP 1:
R1: MR, 6 sc — 6
R2: inc ×6 — 12
R3: (sc, inc) ×6 — 18
R4: (sc 2, inc) ×6 — 24 — about 1.5" wide
R5: (sc 3, inc) ×6 — 30 — about 2" wide
R6: (sc 4, inc) ×6 — 36 — about 2.5" wide — 36 stitches
R1: MR, 6 sc — 6
R2: inc ×6 — 12
R3: (sc, inc) ×6 — 18
R4: (sc 2, inc) ×6 — 24 — about 1.5" wide
R5: (sc 3, inc) ×6 — 30 — about 2" wide
R6: (sc 4, inc) ×6 — 36 — about 2.5" wide — 36 stitches
Step 2 — Body — straight — 36 stitches ×6 rounds — 1.2" tall
Sara here — what's happening in Step 2:
Now we stop increasing and go straight up. 36 stitches around for six rounds — no increases, no decreases. This builds the height — about 1.2 inches. It will start to look like a little bowl. This is the coziest part because it grows fast and you can see the pumpkin shape coming. Keep your tension even.
Now we stop increasing and go straight up. 36 stitches around for six rounds — no increases, no decreases. This builds the height — about 1.2 inches. It will start to look like a little bowl. This is the coziest part because it grows fast and you can see the pumpkin shape coming. Keep your tension even.
Step 2 — body — 36 stitches around for 6 rounds — about 1.2 inches tall — bowl shape forming
STEP 2:
R7-12: sc 36 around ×6 rounds — 36 sc each round — about 1.2" tall — straight sides
R7-12: sc 36 around ×6 rounds — 36 sc each round — about 1.2" tall — straight sides
Step 3 — Closing — 36 down to 6 — stuff lightly
Sara here — what's happening in Step 3:
We close the pumpkin. We go from 36 down to 6 with gentle decreases. At 18 stitches, stuff with about 4 to 5 grams of polyfill — just enough to hold shape, not rock hard. Keep decreasing to 6, close with a needle, pull tight, and leave a long 24-inch tail for the ridges.
We close the pumpkin. We go from 36 down to 6 with gentle decreases. At 18 stitches, stuff with about 4 to 5 grams of polyfill — just enough to hold shape, not rock hard. Keep decreasing to 6, close with a needle, pull tight, and leave a long 24-inch tail for the ridges.
Step 3 — after closing — each pumpkin holds its shape with light stuffing — about 4 to 5 grams per pumpkin
STEP 3:
R13: (sc 4, dec) ×6 — 30
R14: (sc 3, dec) ×6 — 24
R15: (sc 2, dec) ×6 — 18 — stuff with 4 to 5g polyfill now
R16: (sc, dec) ×6 — 12
R17: dec ×6 — 6 — close — pull yarn through remaining 6 stitches — leave a 24" tail for ridges
R13: (sc 4, dec) ×6 — 30
R14: (sc 3, dec) ×6 — 24
R15: (sc 2, dec) ×6 — 18 — stuff with 4 to 5g polyfill now
R16: (sc, dec) ×6 — 12
R17: dec ×6 — 6 — close — pull yarn through remaining 6 stitches — leave a 24" tail for ridges
Step 4 — Ridges — 6 sections like a real pumpkin
Sara here — my favorite — what's happening in Step 4:
This is where a plain ball becomes a pumpkin. Thread the long tail in your yarn needle, go from bottom center to top center, wrap around the outside, back through bottom to top, and pull gently for a ridge. Repeat six times around — six wraps makes six sections, just like a real pumpkin. Pull gently — if you pull too hard the pumpkin flattens.
This is where a plain ball becomes a pumpkin. Thread the long tail in your yarn needle, go from bottom center to top center, wrap around the outside, back through bottom to top, and pull gently for a ridge. Repeat six times around — six wraps makes six sections, just like a real pumpkin. Pull gently — if you pull too hard the pumpkin flattens.
Step 4 — wrapping the long tail six times to form six soft ridges — gentle pull keeps the pumpkin puffy
STEP 4:
Thread the 24" tail in needle — go from bottom center to top center — wrap around outside — back through bottom to top — pull gently — repeat 6 times around — 6 sections — tie at bottom — weave in — pumpkin about 2.5" wide ×1.5" tall with 6 ridges
Thread the 24" tail in needle — go from bottom center to top center — wrap around outside — back through bottom to top — pull gently — repeat 6 times around — 6 sections — tie at bottom — weave in — pumpkin about 2.5" wide ×1.5" tall with 6 ridges
Step 5 — Stem — brown — 0.8" tall
Sara here — what's happening in Step 5:
Now the little brown stem — a tiny tube. Magic ring 6, then three rounds of 6 sc — about 0.8 inches tall. Sew it on top center where all the ridges meet — three or four stitches. Brown yarn looks like a real stem.
Now the little brown stem — a tiny tube. Magic ring 6, then three rounds of 6 sc — about 0.8 inches tall. Sew it on top center where all the ridges meet — three or four stitches. Brown yarn looks like a real stem.
STEP 5:
R1: MR, 6 sc — 6
R2-4: sc 6 around ×3 rounds — 6 sc — about 0.8" tall tube
Fasten off, leave an 8" tail — sew on top center — 3 to 4 stitches
R1: MR, 6 sc — 6
R2-4: sc 6 around ×3 rounds — 6 sc — about 0.8" tall tube
Fasten off, leave an 8" tail — sew on top center — 3 to 4 stitches
Step 6 — Vine — green curly — 3" curled
Sara here — last step — what's happening in Step 6:
Last little touch — a curly vine. Chain 20, then 2 sc in each chain — that's 38 sc — it curls by itself to about 3 inches. Sew it next to the stem with one stitch. If you want it longer, chain 25 for about 4 inches curled, but 20 is perfect for mini.
Last little touch — a curly vine. Chain 20, then 2 sc in each chain — that's 38 sc — it curls by itself to about 3 inches. Sew it next to the stem with one stitch. If you want it longer, chain 25 for about 4 inches curled, but 20 is perfect for mini.
Finished set — four mini pumpkins — burnt orange, cream, mustard, rust — each about 2.5 inches wide with brown stem and green curly vine — styled on a wooden crate with fall leaves
STEP 6:
Ch 20
Row 1: 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across — 38 sc — curls naturally — about 3" curled
Fasten off, leave a 6" tail — sew next to stem — 1 stitch
Ch 20
Row 1: 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across — 38 sc — curls naturally — about 3" curled
Fasten off, leave a 6" tail — sew next to stem — 1 stitch
How I finish mine, ways to make it your own, and caring
Sara — how I finish mine:
I weave ends in with a yarn needle, going through the bottom a couple times so they don't pop out. Worsted can be a little slippery, so I go an extra inch or two. For photos I like to place pumpkins on a wooden crate with pinecones, cinnamon sticks, and fall leaves.
I weave ends in with a yarn needle, going through the bottom a couple times so they don't pop out. Worsted can be a little slippery, so I go an extra inch or two. For photos I like to place pumpkins on a wooden crate with pinecones, cinnamon sticks, and fall leaves.
WAYS TO MAKE IT YOUR OWN:
Color play: Cream with brown stem, mustard with rust, oatmeal, pumpkin, rust, mustard, chocolate — warm fall palette — mixed set of four looks cozy
No vine: Leave the vine off for a minimal look — just the stem — still cute
Bigger pumpkin — about 3" wide: To make a slightly larger pumpkin, add one more increase round: (sc 5, inc) ×6 — 42 stitches — then work 8 rounds straight at 42 — then close 42 to 36 to 30 to 24 to 18 to 12 to 6 — about 3" wide at same gauge — not 3.5"
Smaller pumpkin — about 1.5" wide: Stop at 24 stitches — (sc 2, inc) ×6 =24 — work 3 rounds straight at 24 — then close 24→18→12→6 — cute for tiered trays
Add a leaf: Crochet a small leaf in green and sew near the stem for extra fall
Color play: Cream with brown stem, mustard with rust, oatmeal, pumpkin, rust, mustard, chocolate — warm fall palette — mixed set of four looks cozy
No vine: Leave the vine off for a minimal look — just the stem — still cute
Bigger pumpkin — about 3" wide: To make a slightly larger pumpkin, add one more increase round: (sc 5, inc) ×6 — 42 stitches — then work 8 rounds straight at 42 — then close 42 to 36 to 30 to 24 to 18 to 12 to 6 — about 3" wide at same gauge — not 3.5"
Smaller pumpkin — about 1.5" wide: Stop at 24 stitches — (sc 2, inc) ×6 =24 — work 3 rounds straight at 24 — then close 24→18→12→6 — cute for tiered trays
Add a leaf: Crochet a small leaf in green and sew near the stem for extra fall
I spot clean mine gently with a little cool water and pat dry, then lay flat. Fluff with fingers after — keeps shape nice. Store in a basket, not squished, so ridges keep their shape.
Hey, it's Sara
SARA RAIN CROCHET · HANDMADE WITH LOVE
Thank you for making these mini pumpkins with me — I made mine on a golden October afternoon with real pumpkins on my table and tea steaming beside me. I hope they make your table feel cozy all fall. If you make a set, tag me — I love seeing your pumpkin colors.
— Sara