Crochet Hook Sizes Guide

Hey, it’s Sara

Hook size is less about “rules” and more about the fabric you want. I’m Sara — here’s the chart I actually use and how I decide when to break it.

US / mm quick chart

• B-1 → 2.25 mm — lace, thread, tiny amigurumi
• E-4 → 3.5 mm — light DK, dense amigurumi
• G-6 → 4.0 mm — DK / light worsted
• H-8 → 5.0 mm — worsted (most patterns on this site)
• I-9 → 5.5 mm — worsted with more drape
• K-10½ → 6.5 mm — bulky
• M/N-13 → 9.0 mm — super bulky / statement pieces

Matching hooks to yarn

Start with the hook printed on the ball band. Then adjust:

• Fabric too stiff / hard to stitch? Go up 0.5–1 mm.
• Fabric too holey / scarves stretch out? Go down a size.
• Amigurumi? Usually 1–2 sizes smaller than the band so stuffing doesn’t show.

How the fabric should feel

For a scarf or blanket, you want soft drape — stitches easy to slide, not cardboard. For a basket or amigurumi, you want structure — firmer fabric, smaller hook.

Choosing the hook from the fabric, not just the label

The hook size printed on a yarn label is a starting point. For amigurumi I usually want a firmer fabric, so a smaller hook can help keep stuffing from showing. For a scarf, shawl, or drapey garment, a slightly larger hook can stop the fabric feeling stiff.

If your hands are fighting the hook and every stitch is hard to enter, going up 0.5 mm can make a bigger difference than forcing tighter yarn through the same fabric. If the fabric looks loose and the project needs structure, try 0.5 mm smaller and compare swatches.

For fitted projects, hook size is only a tool for reaching gauge. Read my tension guide before changing the whole pattern to compensate.

Real examples: same yarn, different hook

Suppose I have a smooth category 4 yarn and three hooks: 4.0, 5.0, and 5.5 mm. For a stuffed toy, I would test the 4.0 mm first because I want compact stitches with no stuffing peeking through. For a basic scarf, I would start around 5.0 mm and check whether the fabric bends easily. If I wanted an airier scarf with more movement, I would compare that swatch with 5.5 mm.

The useful comparison is not “which hook is correct?” It is “which swatch behaves like the finished thing should?” Lay the swatches down, stretch them gently, bend them, and look through them toward a light. That tells you more than the number stamped on the hook.

When gauge says to change hooks

Imagine a pattern wants 16 stitches across 4 inches. Your swatch has 18 stitches in the same width. Your stitches are smaller, so the finished piece would tend to come out narrower if you followed the pattern unchanged. Try a larger hook and swatch again. If you only have 14 stitches across 4 inches, try a smaller hook.

Measure after making a swatch larger than 4 inches so you can count in the middle, away from distorted edges. For garments, hats, and anything fitted, this small test is worth the yarn it uses. My crochet tension guide goes deeper into fixing gauge without fighting your hands.